I don't know any way round the fact that category theory is difficult to learn. I think that's partly inherent in the subject, not helped by the lack of a really good textbook suitable for beginners.
Yeah, I came across Barr and Wells 5 years ago in grad school and found it almost impossible to buy. I ended up getting a copy from the library and photocopying and rebinding it. Like you said, it was ok, but hardly comprehensive. Maybe it's easier to find now.
Anyway, nice paper..and thanks for making me think of category theory again. Maybe I'll pull out my old copy of "CT for the working mathematician" and give it (and haskell) another go.
I think you can buy the Barr and Wells book via the web page I gave. In fact I think that's how I got my copy, which must have been around the same time you were looking for it.
I haven't read Walters book, & would also be interested to hear reactions from anyone here who has.
There's Category Theory for Computing Science by Barr and Wells (http://www.case.edu/artsci/math/wells/pub/ctcs.html), which is a good enough book but hardly comprehensive.
I don't know any way round the fact that category theory is difficult to learn. I think that's partly inherent in the subject, not helped by the lack of a really good textbook suitable for beginners.
(Here is the totality of my published work in category theory: http://arxiv.org/pdf/math/0604542v3)