BSH says cold water is okay, warm water only up to 60 °C (!).
I'm under the impression most dishwashers follow pretty much the same design. There's an inlet valve, usually just the aqua-stop itself, which feeds into the water/ducting plate, which also acts as a heat-exchanger between waste water and water intake. Another two valves control the water softener (to switch between normal operation and regeneration using salt water, which is what the salt you put into it is for). Fresh water runs into the pump sump, which contains the waste water pump, which is controlled by a water level switch connected to the inlet (which also turns the aqua-stop off). The pump sump has a third connection, going into the pressure pump, followed by the water heater, that then goes to the washing arms. The water-clearness sensor (which is just a light barrier) is located in this path.
So overall there are remarkably few actuators and sensors:
- Three valves
- Two pumps
- One heater
- One solenoid to release the powder / tab latch
- Outlet temperature sensor at the heater
- Thermal cutoff integrated in the heater
- Water clarity sensor
- Level sensor
I'm under the impression most dishwashers follow pretty much the same design. There's an inlet valve, usually just the aqua-stop itself, which feeds into the water/ducting plate, which also acts as a heat-exchanger between waste water and water intake. Another two valves control the water softener (to switch between normal operation and regeneration using salt water, which is what the salt you put into it is for). Fresh water runs into the pump sump, which contains the waste water pump, which is controlled by a water level switch connected to the inlet (which also turns the aqua-stop off). The pump sump has a third connection, going into the pressure pump, followed by the water heater, that then goes to the washing arms. The water-clearness sensor (which is just a light barrier) is located in this path.
So overall there are remarkably few actuators and sensors: