Anyone know if there's a decent way to get a printed copy?

Or barring that, can anyone suggest a good device on which to read it and jot notes, for someone who normally prefers printed books?

I bought a basic b&w two-sided laser printer in 2011 for this purpose, and it's served me extremely well over the years. You can then take the stack of pages to a store like Staples and they will bind it for you for a few dollars.

I got the Brother HL-2270DW and I think they still make it. They even publish official Linux drivers for CUPS! Just make sure to get the extended toner cartridges (TN450), the regular ones are a ripoff.

Staples and others will also print and bind PDFs you bring in. I've done this with purchased books, sometimes they get a bit picky but usually they'll just do it.

If you can find a used Remarkable 2 or something, that's a real nice experience. Great for textbooks and comics.

You can buy them new, but I think they've moved to some fairly insane forced subscription model.

Edit: looks like the forced subscription is no longer as bad as it once was

I own one (bought new), and don't use the subscription.

It's good for note taking and reading, but uploading PDFs to it and exporting stuff from it is extremely painful and buggy.

I saw a paid FL/OSS desktop app for it at one point, but lost it and my google-fu fails me. Possibly would make it less painful and more useful.

Same.

Yeah RCU works really well, that's possibly the app you mean. http://www.davisr.me/projects/rcu/

I've also installed koreader on mine (dual boot context switched kind of thing), I use that for comics and stuff. Downside is that the notetaking parts don't work on that, but I can just swap back for notes.

Yep, that's the one I was looking for, thanks!